Campania

History and terroir: ancient viticulture between mountains and volcanoes

The vine has ancient origins in Campania, linked to Italic peoples, Greek trade along the coasts and the later Roman culture. Many names evoke this past: Greco recalls the ancient Hellenic presence, while Falerno was already celebrated in Roman times. This historical depth is not merely a cultural detail: it is reflected in the spread of local varieties, often preserved in hilly areas that are difficult to farm mechanically.

The landscape is extremely varied. Irpinia, in the inland area around Avellino, features hills and high-elevation slopes, with temperature swings that help preserve acidity and aromas. The Sannio area around Benevento is broader and more productive, with clay, limestone and sometimes sandy soils. In volcanic areas such as Vesuvius, the Campi Flegrei and Ischia, ash, lapilli, pumice and sand often lend smoky, saline and incisive character. Along the coast, meanwhile, Mediterranean light and sea breezes encourage riper wines that are not necessarily heavy.

The style of Campanian wines: energy, substance and character

Whites are the region’s most surprising heart. Fiano tends to offer aromas of dried flowers, hazelnut, pear and Mediterranean herbs, developing honeyed and light hydrocarbon notes with age. Greco is usually more vertical, with citrus, white peach and flint notes, plus a distinctive tannic sensation on the finish. Falanghina can be floral and immediately appealing, or serious and savoury, especially in versions from well-exposed vineyards with restrained yields.

Among reds, Aglianico dominates: a grape of great structure, acidity and tannic grip. When young, it can seem austere, with dark fruit, violet, pepper, tobacco and graphite; over the years it develops balsamic, earthy and leathery nuances. Not all Campanian reds are austere, however: Piedirosso, Sciascinoso and other local varieties produce more flowing, juicy and often pleasantly spicy wines. In volcanic reds, Piedirosso can show a fragrant freshness that is especially suited to Neapolitan cuisine.

The main appellations: Irpinia, Sannio, Vesuvius and the coast

Irpinia is home to three essential appellations: Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Greco di Tufo DOCG and Taurasi DOCG. Fiano di Avellino is often Campania’s most complete and long-lived white, with palate weight and fascinating bottle evolution. Greco di Tufo, grown around the town of Tufo and neighbouring municipalities, instead expresses tension, minerality and a finish that can sometimes be slightly bitter. Taurasi, made from Aglianico, is a red for cellaring and important meals.

In Sannio, Falanghina del Sannio DOC is a reliable choice for those seeking a regional, aromatic and versatile white. Aglianico del Taburno DOCG is one of the most convincing expressions of Aglianico outside Irpinia, with ripe fruit balanced by good hillside freshness. On the slopes of Vesuvius, Vesuvio DOC and Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio DOC reflect volcanic soils and grapes such as Caprettone, Falanghina and Piedirosso. Campi Flegrei DOC, Ischia DOC, Costa d’Amalfi DOC, Falerno del Massico DOC and Cilento DOC complete a map rich in local interpretations.

How to choose and serve a wine from Campania

For an aperitif or seafood lunch, I would choose a young Falanghina, a white from the Campi Flegrei or an Ischia Bianco: they should be fresh, but not ice-cold. Excessive chilling mutes the aromatic and saline elements that make these wines so interesting. Fiano and Greco deserve more attention: if they come from recent vintages and have good concentration, it is useful to open them a few minutes in advance and serve them in a generously sized white-wine glass.

With Taurasi and Aglianico del Taburno, I recommend patience. A young bottle can benefit from a decanter, especially if it has dense tannins or initially seems closed. In the dining room, I have often seen these wines change after half an hour in the glass: the fruit becomes clearer, spicy notes emerge and the structure relaxes. Piedirosso and coastal reds, on the other hand, are often more ready to drink and enjoyable at a slightly cooler temperature than great full-bodied reds.

Food pairings: Campania beyond seafood

Campanian whites have a natural affinity with fish, crustaceans and shellfish, but let us not stop there. A dry, taut Greco di Tufo pairs magnificently with well-drained buffalo mozzarella, especially when served with grilled vegetables or anchovies. Fiano di Avellino, broader and more complex, works very well with pasta and chickpeas, delicate Ischian-style rabbit, or oven-baked fish with aromatic herbs. Falanghina is perfect with fried seafood, white pizza and pasta dishes with courgettes or clams.

For reds, Piedirosso is one of the best companions to Neapolitan pizza with tomato, thanks to its freshness and moderate tannins. Aglianico calls for more intense dishes: Neapolitan ragù, braciole in tomato sauce, roast lamb, braises and aged cheeses. Taurasi should not be unnecessarily overwhelmed with spices or sweet sauces: it performs best with slow-cooked, savoury and deeply umami preparations. A simple rule of thumb is this: the younger and more tannic the wine, the more succulence, fat or long cooking the dish should have.

Frequently asked questions