Abruzzo

History and terroir: viticulture between sea and mountains

Grape growing in Abruzzo has ancient origins, encouraged by the region’s location in central Adriatic Italy and by the presence of naturally suited valleys. For centuries, production was primarily linked to local and family consumption, with vineyards often planted alongside olive groves, cereals and vegetable gardens. In the second half of the 20th century, Abruzzo viticulture gradually became more organised, initially focusing on the spread of Montepulciano and, more recently, on highlighting individual areas, elevations and indigenous white varieties.

The landscape explains much about the wines’ style. The coastal belt benefits from the influence of the Adriatic, with ventilation and generally milder temperatures. Moving inland, the hills rise higher and vineyards experience cool nights, slower ripening and more taut aromatic profiles. Soils are equally varied: clay, sand, marl, limestone and pebbly deposits alternate depending on the area. Clay tends to give structure and depth to reds; limestone and stone promote tension and drive in whites. Finally, the mountains protect the region while also regulating its climate, creating obvious differences even between vineyards only a few kilometres apart.

The style of Abruzzo wines

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is typically a deeply coloured red, with notes of sour cherry, plum, blackberry, violet, Mediterranean herbs, spice and sometimes cocoa or tobacco when aged in wood. It has noticeable yet often ripe tannins, a medium to full body, and acidity that, in well-made examples, prevents any heaviness. It can be immediate and juicy in its youth, or complex and long-lived in selections from the best hillsides and older vines. There is no single style: some producers pursue fruit and drinkability, while others favour extraction, ageing and depth.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo deserves particular attention. It is a rosé made from Montepulciano, often deeper in colour than Provençal rosés, ranging from cherry pink to vivid cerasuolo. On the nose, it recalls pomegranate, ripe strawberry, blood orange, rose and light spices; on the palate, it is often more structured than its colour might suggest. Among whites, Pecorino offers citrus, flowers, herbs, peach and a distinctive savoury streak; Trebbiano Abruzzese, when handled precisely, can be refined, restrained, floral and mineral. Passerina and Cococciola, meanwhile, offer profiles that are often fresh, fragrant and especially well suited to summer dining.

Key appellations and areas

The broadest appellation is DOC Abruzzo, which includes several styles and serves as the regional benchmark for many white, rosé and red wines. Within the Abruzzo wine landscape, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC is the best-known historic appellation for reds, while Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC identifies the regional rosé. There is also Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, dedicated to white wine made primarily from Trebbiano Abruzzese and varieties permitted by the production regulations. These are useful names to look for on a label, but to truly understand a wine, it is also worth considering its area of origin and the producer’s approach.

Among the best-known areas are the Colline Teramane, in the province of Teramo, recognised as DOCG for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Here, the hills between the Adriatic and Gran Sasso can produce deep, spicy and long-lived reds, often supported by good freshness. To the north, the Controguerra area offers various DOC styles. In the province of Chieti, particularly in the hills near the coast and further inland, Montepulciano often shows a generous Mediterranean side; this is also home to the small DOCG Tullum, around Tollo. The provinces of Pescara and L’Aquila complete an important mosaic, with hillside and inland vineyards where altitude can become a defining stylistic signature.

How to choose and serve an Abruzzo wine

To choose well, do not stop at the grape variety alone. A young Montepulciano d’Abruzzo can be perfect for an informal dinner, especially if you are looking for dark fruit, softness and non-aggressive tannins. A Riserva or a selection from hillside vineyards, on the other hand, calls for more attention: it may have greater concentration, barrel ageing and interesting ageing potential. Through restaurant service, I have learned that many Abruzzo reds are brought to the table too warm: at 20 or 22 °C, the alcohol stands out and the tannins seem drier. A slightly lower temperature brings precision back to the fruit.

Young Montepulciano performs best at around 16-18 °C; a serious version can be opened in advance and, if young and tightly wound, aerated in a decanter. Cerasuolo should not be treated as a very light rosé: serve it at 10-12 °C, so it retains freshness without losing its texture. Pecorino, Trebbiano and Passerina are generally enjoyable at 8-10 °C; for a more complex white, 10-12 °C is preferable. Use medium-sized, generously shaped glasses for reds and tulip-shaped glasses for whites and rosés: the aim is to bring out aromas without warming the wine too quickly.

Pairings: Abruzzo at the table

Abruzzo cuisine offers natural pairings, often more elegant than one might expect. Young Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is superb with arrosticini of lamb, grilled sausages, meat ragù and roast lamb. More evolved versions, with firm tannins and tertiary aromas, have the structure to accompany braised meats, feathered game, beef cheek and aged cheeses. A practical tip from service: with herb-roasted lamb, I would choose a Montepulciano that is not overly oaked, because rosemary and thyme call for freshness as well as power.

Cerasuolo is one of the most useful wines to keep on the table because it pairs with cured meats, fish stew, legume soups, tomato-topped pizza, roast chicken and mildly spiced dishes. Its combination of fruit, acidity and a light tannic imprint allows it to move naturally from seafood to white meat. Pecorino and Trebbiano Abruzzese are excellent with Adriatic fish, fried dishes, shellfish, vegetables, fresh cheeses and delicate pasta courses. With chitarrina pasta with seafood, I would choose a savoury white that is not overburdened by oak; with a chickpea and chestnut soup, on the other hand, even a fresh Cerasuolo can be a surprisingly successful choice.

Frequently asked questions