Riesling (Beerenauslese)

History and terroir: a grape born for cool climates

The first documented references to Riesling date back to 15th-century Germany, although its origins are probably older and linked to the Rhine basin. Today it is grown mainly in Germany, Austria, French Alsace, Luxembourg, Australia, New Zealand and certain cool areas of North America. It is a fairly late-ripening grape: it needs a long season, with sufficient sunshine but without excessive heat, to develop complex aromas while retaining acidity.

Its ideal habitat consists of south- or south-east-facing slopes, often close to rivers that reflect light and moderate temperatures. The Mosel, Rhine and Nahe in Germany are perfect examples. Riesling expresses different soils exceptionally well: on slate it takes on smoky, citrus and mineral notes; on limestone soils it can be finer, more floral and more linear; on sandstone and porphyry it tends to show greater aromatic fullness and a spicy texture. It is not a grape that likes to crop heavily: to make high-quality wines, it requires balanced yields, vineyard selection and precise harvesting.

The Riesling wine style: dry, sweet, young or evolved

Riesling does not have just one style. A dry Riesling can be lean and lively, with notes of lime, lemon, green apple, white peach, wildflowers and delicate herbs. In riper wines or those from warm regions, yellow peach, apricot, candied citrus and spices emerge. Acidity is almost always the central element: it should not be aggressive, but should give momentum to the palate, extend the flavour and make the wine particularly food-friendly.

In Germany, it is useful to know certain traditional indications linked to grape ripeness. Kabinett often identifies delicate, light wines; Spätlese, literally late harvest, can offer greater concentration; Auslese comes from riper bunches and may be dry, off-dry or distinctly sweet. Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein belong to the world of sweet wines from highly concentrated grapes. The term trocken indicates a dry wine, while halbtrocken denotes a semi-dry style. On German labels, however, the producer always matters too: the same category may be interpreted in different ways.

With bottle ageing, Riesling develops extraordinary nuances: honey, beeswax, tea, flint, dried herbs and citrus peel. Sometimes a hydrocarbon note appears, often associated with petrol. This is not necessarily a flaw: in mature Rieslings it can be a typical varietal trait, also linked to the vintage and storage conditions. When well integrated, it adds complexity; when it dominates completely, it can be less elegant.

The main Riesling regions around the world

Germany is the absolute benchmark. The Mosel often produces light, fragrant and exceptionally refined Rieslings, supported by bright acidity and the typical imprint of slate. The Rheingau generally offers broader, more structured wines, while the Nahe is renowned for its balance of fruit ripeness, tension and mineral character. The sunnier Pfalz tends to produce fuller, more generous wines; Rheinhessen now brings together many highly precise producers capable of making modern, deep dry Rieslings. Franconia, although better known for Silvaner, can also offer crisp, rigorous Rieslings.

In Alsace, Riesling takes on a different personality: it is often dry, fuller-bodied and spicier than many German examples. The soils are highly varied, from granite to limestone, sandstone to clay, and the Grand Cru designation identifies certain historic crus of particular quality. The best Alsatian Rieslings have the structure to accompany rich dishes and remarkable ageing potential.

In Austria, especially in Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal, Riesling is frequently dry, incisive and intense, with a more compact structure. In Australia, Clare Valley and Eden Valley interpret the grape through dry, precise and often intensely citrus-driven styles, sometimes with notes of lime and wet stone. In New Zealand, particularly in Marlborough and Central Otago, both dry and off-dry versions of great fragrance can be found, with ripe fruit and bright acidity.

How to serve Riesling and store it after opening

Temperature is crucial. A young, dry and light Riesling shows well between 8 and 10 °C; a more complex, mature or single-vineyard Riesling should be served slightly less chilled, between 10 and 12 °C. Great evolved dry Rieslings can be served at 12-13 °C. Serving them too cold is a common mistake: the aromas close down, the acidity seems harsher and the wine loses its palate texture.

I prefer a medium-sized white wine glass, not too narrow. The classic small glass is fine for a young, simple Kabinett, but it limits a Riesling with character. A glass with a slightly narrower rim concentrates the aromas without constricting the wine and allows its mineral, citrus and floral notes to emerge. For important bottles, an all-purpose white wine glass is often the best choice.

Decanting is rarely necessary. A young Riesling can simply be opened ten minutes before serving. A mature example, especially if it has sediment or has spent a long time in the cellar, may benefit from very gentle decanting. Once opened, a dry bottle that is properly resealed and kept in the refrigerator remains enjoyable for two or three days; those with residual sugar can keep well for even longer, thanks to their acidity and sugar.

Riesling at the table: the most versatile white wine

Dry Riesling is an excellent companion for fish, shellfish, vegetables and Asian cuisine that is not excessively spicy. Its acidity cleanses the palate of creamy sauces, butter and light fried dishes, while its aromatic component works well with ginger, lemongrass, coriander and sweet spices. In restaurant service, I have often preferred it to softer whites when a dish had an acidic, citrusy or smoky element: Riesling does not disappear, but retains freshness and precision.

It delivers great satisfaction with German and Alpine cuisine. A dry Riesling with good structure is excellent with smoked trout, lake fish, schnitzel, roast pork with apples or well-balanced sauerkraut dishes. The off-dry version, on the other hand, is a valuable option with spiced dishes: Thai curry, moderately spicy tandoori chicken, sweet-and-sour pork and Vietnamese cuisine. The slight residual sugar softens the perception of chilli, while the acidity prevents the pairing from becoming heavy.

Sweet Rieslings deserve a chapter of their own. They are magnificent with blue cheeses, foie gras, delicate pâtés and fruit desserts, especially those featuring apricots, peaches, apples and citrus fruits. I would avoid intense dark chocolate desserts, which tend to overwhelm the wine’s finesse. A fine Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese, served in small quantities and at the correct temperature, can provide a memorable end to a meal.

Frequently asked questions