Marche

History and territory: a region shaped by valleys

Viticulture in Marche has ancient origins, first linked to the Picene peoples and later to the Roman presence. Over the centuries, monasteries, farming families and small landowners have maintained a widespread agricultural tradition based on mixed farming: vines, olive trees, cereals, vegetables and livestock still coexist in many rural landscapes today. This historical fragmentation explains the region’s less uniform identity compared with other Italian areas: in Marche, there is no single model of wine, but rather a succession of territories with their own character.

The Adriatic Sea moderates temperatures along the coast and brings breezes that help preserve healthy grapes and aromatic freshness. Further inland, the hills gradually rise towards the Apennine foothills: here, day-to-night temperature variation becomes more pronounced and ripening is often slower. The soils are equally diverse: clay and marine sands dominate in many hilly areas, while more inland zones and the area around Matelica feature limestone elements, alluvial deposits and stonier soils. The result is a region where the same grape variety can take on very different expressions.

The style of wines from Marche

The signature white is Verdicchio, a grape variety capable of producing dry, taut and savoury wines, with aromas that may recall lemon, green apple, white peach, wildflowers, aromatic herbs and almond. With bottle ageing, it can develop more complex notes of honey, wild fennel, light petrol and dried fruit. Its strength lies not only in its aroma, but in the balance of acidity, structure and saline character: it is a white wine that can age and often has an almost light-red-wine-like texture.

Among the reds, Montepulciano is central, particularly in the southern denominations and the Conero area. It provides colour, dark fruit, spice, tannin and good ageing potential. Sangiovese, on the other hand, brings drive, cherry, freshness and a more vibrant edge. Styles can be immediate and juicy or more ambitious, with well-judged oak ageing. Pecorino and Passerina, lively and fragrant whites, should not be overlooked, nor should Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, a rare sparkling red from partially dried grapes, spicy and distinctive.

Verdicchio: Castelli di Jesi and Matelica

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is produced in the broad hilly area around Jesi, in the province of Ancona. Its name refers to the ancient castles and fortified villages that dot the landscape. Here, the influence of the Adriatic is more noticeable, and vineyards are generally located on clay-limestone hillsides. The wine can be very immediate and citrus-driven in its vintage expression, but in more carefully selected bottlings it gains volume, depth and a pleasing almond-like finish.

Verdicchio di Matelica comes from further inland, in an elevated valley protected by the Apennine hills. The climate is more continental than in Jesi, with cool nights and often slower ripening. In general, Matelica wines show a more vertical profile: crisp acidity, minerality, tension and a structure that makes them excellent with flavourful dishes. Both areas include higher-quality styles and designations, including Riserva versions. At the table, the choice between Jesi and Matelica can be useful: the former is often more open and harmonious, the latter more incisive and austere.

The great reds: Conero, Piceno and Lacrima

Rosso Conero is associated with the slopes of Monte Conero, a promontory overlooking the Adriatic south of Ancona. Montepulciano is the undisputed or largely dominant protagonist, finding limestone and clay soils, sea breezes and a climate favourable to complete ripening here. The result is intensely coloured reds, with sour cherry, plum, violet, pepper, liquorice and sometimes balsamic notes. Tannin is present but usually well integrated: a balanced Conero naturally complements roasts, grilled meats and aged cheeses.

Rosso Piceno covers a much broader territory in the region’s southern provinces and comes from the meeting, in proportions that vary according to regulations and area, of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. It is a convivial red, often focused on red and dark fruit, spice and good freshness. Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, by contrast, is a small denomination near Senigallia. Its grape offers distinctive aromas of rose, violet, geranium, berries and spices. It can be dry, soft and fragrant: it should not be served too warm, or it will lose its elegant floral component.

How to choose, serve and pair wines from Marche

For an aperitif or a fish lunch, Verdicchio is a safe choice, but it is worth treating with respect: a simple version performs well when chilled, while a Riserva or a more structured wine deserves a few extra degrees and a large glass. It is not uncommon for the best Verdicchios to improve after ten or fifteen minutes in the glass. I would avoid an ice bucket with too much ice: excessive cold suppresses aromas, savouriness and texture.

Temperature matters greatly with reds from Marche. Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno seem more alcoholic and harsh when served too warm; at around 16-18 °C, they are instead juicier and more refined. For a young, structured bottle, a brief period of oxygenation in a decanter can be helpful. In the dining room, I have seen Rosso Conero work wonderfully with herb-roasted lamb, while a Lacrima served slightly cooler has won over even guests accustomed to choosing only whites with cured meats and spicy dishes.

Frequently asked questions