Sangiovese, Sagrantino

History, origin and identity of Sangiovese

The name Sangiovese is traditionally linked to “Blood of Jupiter,” although its etymology is uncertain. The grape’s presence in central Italy has been documented for centuries, and its history is closely intertwined with Tuscan agriculture. For a long time, it was cultivated in mixed farming systems alongside olive trees, cereals and other varieties, becoming part of different blends according to local customs.

Today, we know that Sangiovese is not a uniform family: it has numerous biotypes and local variations. The historical distinctions between Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo are useful mainly as territorial and traditional references, but they are not enough on their own to explain wine quality. Far more important are the plant material, exposure, altitude, soil, vine age and the producer’s choices.

It is a relatively late-ripening variety that performs best in breezy locations with a good diurnal temperature range and a sufficiently long autumn. If harvested too early, it can be tart and lean; if overly ripe, it risks losing its characteristic aromatic energy. The balance is delicate, and this is precisely where serious vineyard work is measured.

Terroir, climate and soils: why it changes so much

Sangiovese loves hillside slopes and sunny, but not excessively hot, exposures. In Tuscany, it finds ideal conditions thanks to a Mediterranean climate tempered by altitude and breezes. Cool nights in higher areas help preserve acidity and aromas, while sunshine promotes complete tannin ripening.

Soils have a clear impact on the wine’s profile. Galestro, a friable, stony marl, tends to produce taut, floral and savoury wines. Alberese, a limestone rock typical of many areas of Chianti, often contributes finer tannins and a mineral thread. Clay soils can provide greater volume and richness, provided they do not retain too much water in rainy vintages.

In Montalcino, very different soils can be found just a few kilometres apart: galestro, alberese, clays, marine deposits and stones. This is why Brunello can be more austere and vertical in the higher northern areas, or broader, warmer and more Mediterranean towards the south. In Romagna, with clay and limestone soils and a more pronounced Adriatic influence, Sangiovese often takes on a sunnier character, with generous fruit and sweet spice.

Wine styles: colour, aromas, structure and evolution

In the glass, Sangiovese is often recognisable by its bright ruby colour, which is not always opaque. With age, it naturally tends towards garnet. The youthful bouquet recalls crisp cherry, morello cherry, raspberry and red plum, followed by violet, iris, blood orange, black tea, tobacco, Mediterranean scrub and wet-earth notes. In more mature wines, leather, undergrowth and balsamic notes may emerge.

On the palate, it is generally dry, with lively acidity and noticeable tannins. These two elements explain its affinity for food and ageing. A simple Sangiovese can be immediate, juicy and easy-drinking; one from favoured vineyards with low yields can become complex, profound and capable of developing over many years.

Oak should be used with restraint. Traditional large casks often respect the fruit and structure of the grape, while barriques can add spice, toastiness and roundness. Neither approach is automatically better: in restaurants, I have encountered great mature Sangiovese aged in large casks as well as excellent, more modern examples. What matters is that vanilla, coffee or toastiness do not erase the character of cherry, herbs and freshness that makes the grape recognisable.

Appellations and areas to know

Chianti DOCG is probably the most useful starting point. It encompasses a vast territory and different styles, but Sangiovese remains at the heart of the appellation. Chianti Classico, between Florence and Siena, generally offers wines with greater territorial depth: cherry, violet, earth and well-defined tannins. The Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive designations help identify differences between municipalities and historic areas, although each producer interprets their own place in a personal way.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is made exclusively from Sangiovese, locally known as Brunello. It is one of the grape’s high points for structure, longevity and complexity. Rosso di Montalcino, by contrast, usually offers a younger, more approachable expression of the region. In Montepulciano, Sangiovese is known as Prugnolo Gentile and forms the basis of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, often characterised by elegance, floral notes and balanced tannin structure.

Carmignano also deserves attention, where Sangiovese may be blended with Cabernet, as does Morellino di Scansano, a more Mediterranean expression from the Maremma. Outside Tuscany, Sangiovese di Romagna DOC often offers fragrant, spicy and terroir-driven wines, while in Marche it is included in important appellations such as Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero, usually alongside Montepulciano. In Umbria, it appears in various local reds, where it can take on more rustic and spicy nuances.

How to choose, serve and pair Sangiovese

To choose well, I would start with the occasion. A young Chianti or Sangiovese di Romagna is ideal for an everyday dinner: look for clear fruit, lively acidity and well-integrated alcohol. For roasts, braises or more substantial dishes, Chianti Classico Riserva, Vino Nobile or Brunello can offer greater depth. A cool vintage tends to favour drive and verticality; a warm one may express riper fruit and greater softness.

Temperature is crucial. A young Sangiovese performs best at around 16-18 °C; served too warm, it emphasises alcohol and makes the tannins seem harsher, while too cold it closes down the aromas. Important, mature wines deserve a large glass and, if they show sediment or have just been opened, a brief period of oxygenation. I would not automatically decant every bottle: taste first, as some evolved wines may open gradually in the glass.

At the table, Sangiovese is a natural ally of Italian cuisine. Its acidity supports tomato, its tannins work well with meat and legumes, while its herbal notes are excellent with rosemary, sage, mushrooms and truffle. I would only avoid very sweet or spicy preparations, which make the wine seem drier. It can also work with fish, provided the recipe is flavourful, such as grilled tuna, cacciucco or cod with tomato.

Frequently asked questions