Piedirosso, Sciascinoso e Aglianico

History and terroir: an ancient grape with a very modern relevance

The origin of the name Aglianico is often linked to the Greek presence in southern Italy, although its etymology has not been established with certainty. Its history is nevertheless ancient and deeply rooted in the southern Apennines, where the grape has adapted over the centuries to very different conditions: inland hills, volcanic slopes, breezy plateaus, and clay or limestone soils. It is a demanding variety that ripens late, sometimes as late as November in higher-altitude areas.

This slow ripening is one of its strengths. Sunny days allow the grapes to develop colour and substance, while the cool nights of inland areas preserve acidity and aromas. Aglianico does not like to be rushed: harvesting too early results in green, harsh tannins; waiting too long can lead to excessive alcohol. The most attentive producers focus precisely on this delicate window of phenolic ripeness.

The grape has thick skins and naturally provides abundant tannins, intense pigments, and good acidity. This is why it often produces wines suited to ageing. At the same time, contemporary vineyard practices and less extractive winemaking have made more approachable interpretations available, in which fruit remains at the forefront without sacrificing the grape’s characteristic tension.

What style are Aglianico wines?

In the glass, Aglianico generally shows a deep ruby colour, sometimes almost impenetrable when young, with garnet highlights emerging over time. Aromas may recall sour cherry, dark plum, blackberry, violet, black pepper, liquorice, tobacco, and cocoa. Wines from volcanic soils often display a mineral, iron-like, or smoky note, which should not be mistaken for a fault: when well integrated, it brings depth and distinctiveness.

On the palate, it is a structured red, but its hallmark is not simply power. Its acidity is often lively and lengthens the finish, the tannins are dense and can feel austere in the early years, while the finish tends to be savoury and persistent. A young Aglianico may seem more restrained than its ripe fruit suggests: this is normal, and exactly why it benefits from air and a well-constructed dish alongside it.

With bottle ageing, the wine relaxes and broadens. Fresh-fruit notes give way to leather, forest floor, sweet spices, wet earth, and balsamic nuances. If oak is used, it should support rather than cover the wine: overly obvious barrique ageing can make it heavy, while large casks or neutral vessels allow the terroir to emerge more clearly. Rosés and younger styles also exist, but Aglianico finds its most classic expression in still reds designed for medium- to long-term development.

The main areas: Taurasi, Vulture, and other expressions

The best-known appellation is Taurasi DOCG, in Irpinia, in the province of Avellino. Here, Aglianico often grows among elevated hills and complex soils containing clay, limestone, and volcanic elements. The climate is more continental than on the Campanian coast: cold winters, sunny summers, and significant temperature swings. Taurasi typically offers deep, tannic, long-lived wines with profiles of sour cherry, spices, graphite, and earthy notes. It is a wine that rewards patience, particularly after several years in bottle.

In Basilicata, the benchmark is Aglianico del Vulture, produced in the Monte Vulture area, an ancient extinct volcano. Soils of volcanic origin, rich in ash, tuff, and mineral material, contribute to a style that is often intense and vertical. Compared with Taurasi, Vulture may show a smokier, saltier, more mineral profile, while remaining rich in dark fruit and tannin. The Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG appellation identifies the area’s regulated top-quality category.

In Campania, Taburno in the Benevento area of Sannio and the expressions from the Caserta area also deserve attention, where Aglianico can take on a warmer, more Mediterranean character. Thanks to altitude and ventilation, Taburno often retains good freshness and produces reds with character, sometimes more approachable in their youth. In Molise and other southern areas, the grape appears in interesting local interpretations, but Campania and Basilicata remain its true heartland.

How to choose, store, and serve Aglianico

When choosing an Aglianico, start with the occasion. A young bottle, perhaps vinified to prioritise fruit and aged mainly in steel or concrete, is ideal with a meat dinner, aged charcuterie, or richly flavoured dishes. For an important lunch, a celebration, or braised meat, it makes more sense to choose a Taurasi or Aglianico del Vulture with a few years of ageing. The vintage and individual producer have a major impact: this grape clearly reflects the winemaker’s hand in the cellar.

Serving temperature is essential. Serving it too warm accentuates alcohol and tannin, making the wine seem heavier; serving it too cold closes down its aromas and makes its structure even more rigid. In restaurants, I have often slightly chilled a bottle that arrived at the table at room temperature: a few minutes make a tangible difference. The aim is a temperature between 16 and 18 °C, with a slight preference for the lower end for younger wines or on warm days.

A young, concentrated Aglianico benefits from decanting for around an hour, sometimes longer if the bottle is particularly closed. For a mature wine, however, it is better to open it carefully and assess it in the glass: oxygen should awaken it, not consume its more delicate aromas. Store it on its side, in the dark, without temperature fluctuations; the best examples can develop for a long time, but not every bottle necessarily needs to wait decades before being enjoyed.

Food pairings: intense, succulent dishes with a rich component

Aglianico is a gastronomic wine. Its tannins find balance in the protein and succulence of meat, while its acidity cleanses the palate of fat. The most natural pairings are roast lamb, grilled beef, ribs, game, and braised meats. With a mature Taurasi, I particularly enjoy slow-cooked cuts: beef cheek, rich ragù, stews with aromatic herbs and mushrooms. The wine supports the dish’s complexity without disappearing.

In Campanian cuisine, it is excellent with Neapolitan ragù, genovese with onions and meat, sausage with friarielli when the preparation is not excessively spicy, or a generously dressed lasagna. In Basilicata, try an Aglianico del Vulture with oven-roasted lamb, peperoni cruschi alongside roast meat, or aged pecorino cheeses. The savoury, mineral note of many Vulture wines works particularly well with smoked ingredients and rustic inland cuisine.

Cheeses can also deliver excellent results, provided they have body and maturity: caciocavallo podolico, pecorino, and moderately sharp provolone piccante. I would avoid delicate fish, bitter raw vegetables, very acidic preparations, and desserts. Take care with extremely hot chilli: tannin tends to amplify its sensation. If the dish is spicy, it is better to choose a softer, more evolved expression rather than a young, particularly extracted Aglianico.

Frequently asked questions