California

History and terroir: from the missions to modern viticulture

Vines arrived in California in the late eighteenth century with Spanish missionaries, who planted the grape variety known as Mission to make wine for liturgical use. During the nineteenth century, with the Gold Rush and the arrival of European settlers, cultivation spread rapidly. Italian, French, German and Hungarian immigrants brought new varieties and expertise; phylloxera and, above all, Prohibition from 1920 to 1933, however, interrupted the quality-driven development of many estates.

The modern revival began after the Second World War and accelerated during the 1960s and 1970s. The 1976 Judgment of Paris, in which a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and a Californian Chardonnay outperformed leading French wines in a blind tasting, made California famous around the world. Since then, research into clones, rootstocks, aspects and water management has led to highly sophisticated viticulture.

The Pacific dominates the landscape. Cold currents, wind and fog enter the valleys through gaps in the coastal ranges, slowing grape ripening. The practical rule is simple: cooler areas favour Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah; warmer zones give greater expression to Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot and Rhône varieties. Volcanic, sandy, clay, alluvial and limestone soils complete an extraordinarily complex mosaic.

The styles of Californian wines

Californian Cabernet Sauvignon is often the region's emblem: deep colour, blackcurrant, blackberry, cassis, cedar, tobacco, cocoa and sometimes balsamic notes. In warm vintages it can be broad, alcoholic and enveloping; in cool, high-altitude sites, it retains a firmer tannic framework and compelling freshness. Napa Valley, Sonoma County and Paso Robles offer very different interpretations of the same grape variety.

Chardonnay ranges from rich, creamy styles aged in barriques and often undergoing malolactic fermentation to more linear, saline expressions. The finest Chardonnays from coastal areas evoke citrus, white peach, flowers, subtle butter and flint, without losing tension. Pinot Noir, especially from Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Santa Rita Hills and Santa Lucia Highlands, can combine strawberry, cherry, dried rose, forest floor and fine spice with an elegant body.

Zinfandel is a historic grape variety, genetically related to Puglian Primitivo, yet it has developed its own identity in California. It typically offers blackberry, ripe raspberry, black pepper, cinnamon, jam and sometimes a smoky note. It is generous, warm and perfect with barbecue cuisine. Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Syrah, Grenache and Rhône-style blends are also important; traditional-method sparkling wines and late-harvest sweet wines are also produced.

Napa, Sonoma and other regions to know

Napa Valley is small compared with the space it occupies in the international imagination, but it has many distinct areas. The valley floor is warmer and suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; hillside districts such as Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain District and Mount Veeder produce more structured wines, sometimes iron-like or mineral, with vigorous tannins. Coombsville, close to San Pablo Bay, is cooler instead and interesting for more refined Cabernet and Chardonnay.

Sonoma County is larger and climatically more varied. Russian River Valley is celebrated for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, thanks to fog rolling in from the ocean. Sonoma Coast, colder and windier, tends to yield taut, floral and savoury wines. Dry Creek Valley is a classic area for Zinfandel, while Alexander Valley offers ripe yet often well-balanced Cabernet Sauvignon. In Carneros, administratively divided between Napa and Sonoma, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling-wine base wines shine.

Further south, Central Coast is one of the most dynamic areas. Santa Rita Hills, in Santa Barbara County, benefits from east-west valleys that funnel cold ocean air: here Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are particularly refined. Paso Robles, warmer and with significant diurnal temperature variation, is a benchmark for Cabernet, Syrah, Grenache and Mediterranean blends. Further east, Lodi is known for old Zinfandel vines on sandy soils, while Sierra Foothills offers mountain wines, often made from Zinfandel, Barbera and Italian varieties.

Appellations, labels and choosing a bottle

In the United States, appellations are called AVAs, American Viticultural Areas. An AVA identifies a geographically defined area with recognisable characteristics, but it does not impose the same strict European rules on grape varieties, yields, cellar practices or ageing. For consumers, this means that the area name is very useful, but it should be read alongside the producer, vintage, grape variety and style stated on the label.

A broad indication such as California may include grapes sourced from different parts of the State and tends to suggest a more consistent, approachable style. A wine labelled Sonoma County, Napa Valley or Central Coast already narrows down the origin; a sub-region such as Oakville, Santa Rita Hills or Russian River Valley describes the place more precisely. It is not an automatic quality scale, but greater specificity can be valuable in understanding the wine's character.

In the dining room, I learned to ask two simple questions before recommending a Californian wine: are you looking for power or freshness? And do you prefer noticeable oak or more direct fruit? For those who enjoy soft, generous reds, I would suggest Zinfandel or Cabernet from warm areas; for those who appreciate Barolo, Etna Rosso or Burgundy Pinot Noir, I would recommend coastal Pinot, cool-climate Syrah or high-altitude Cabernet. For whites, a coastal Chardonnay is the most versatile choice, while Sauvignon Blanc is ideal when aromatic lift is needed.

Serving and food pairings: how to bring out their best at the table

Californian reds should almost never be served too warm. A Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel at 16-18 °C will be more balanced, with less noticeable alcohol and more orderly tannins. Young, concentrated reds benefit from around one hour in a decanter, whereas delicate Pinot Noir only requires opening in advance and a broad, but not enormous, glass. For Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, 8-12 °C is generally the right range: temperatures that are too cold mute aromas and texture.

Rich, oak-aged Chardonnay pairs beautifully with roasted shellfish, herb-roasted chicken, creamy risottos and semi-hard cheeses. Tauter coastal versions work with oysters, raw fish, scallops and Asian cuisine that is not overly spicy. Sauvignon Blanc, often citrus-driven and vegetal, is a natural partner for asparagus, salads with goat's cheese, white fish and dishes featuring aromatic herbs.

With reds, the principle is to seek equivalent intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon with rib steak, roast lamb or braised dishes; Zinfandel with ribs, sausages, burgers and spicy cuisine; Pinot Noir with duck, mushrooms, seared tuna or guinea fowl. One pairing I have served with excellent results is a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir with porcini mushroom risotto: the earthiness of the mushroom echoes the wine's forest-floor notes, while the acidity refreshes the creamy finish.

Frequently asked questions